• Chateau Palmer, Margaux:
The 2003 vintage was characterised by several very hot spells. This unusual weather accounted for a very low volume of small grapes with thick skins. Their perfect ripeness is reflected in high-class, well-balanced wines, which are sure to reveal the extraordinary character of this vintage in years to come.

• Chateau Angelus, Saint-Emilion: WS 95-100
Exotic aromas of blackberries, cherries, spices and light coffee. Full-bodied, with supervelvety tannins. Goes on and on. A fabulous young wine. Beautiful. This is pure fruit-coated cashmere. - J.S.

• Chateau Ausone, Saint-Emilion: WS 95-100
Intense aromas of black licorice, currants, berries, minerals and citrus. Hints of smoky wood. Full-bodied and superconcentrated, with layers of ripe fruit and supervelvety tannins. Goes on and on. Very complex with amazing concentration. Blockbuster. Massive. - J.S.

• Chateau Cheval Blanc, Saint-Emilion: WS 95-100
Very pretty licorice and mineral aromas. Hints of flowers. Medium- to full-bodied, with sweet and silky tannins. Lovely chocolate character. Racy and modern for Cheval-Blanc. Not the 1998, but very fine indeed. Seductive juice. Long and beautiful. - J.S.

• Chateau Clerc Milon, Pauillac: WS 95-100
Licorice and mineral with currants. Full-bodied, supertight and rich with velvety tannins and a long, long finish. A real beauty. This is a thick and powerful blockbuster-one of my old favorites. 6,500 cases made. - J.S.

• Chateau Cos d'Estournel, Saint-Estephe: WS 95-100
Intense wild blackberry, spice and licorice aromas. Full-bodied, with big, velvety tannins and a seductive, rich finish. Goes on and on. A very exotic Cos, with fabulous fruit and ripe tannins. The estate says it is the best wine they have ever made and I think they could be right. 15,000 cases made. - J.S.

• Chateau Gruaud Larose, Saint-Julien: WS 95-100
Pure cassis and raspberry sauce with vanilla. Full-bodied, with big, velvety tannins and a finish that lasts a very long time. Awesome wine. This is very close in quality to the 2000. - J.S.

• Chateau Haut Brion, Pessac-Leognan: WS 95-100
Incredibly intense aromas of tobacco, chocolate, toasted oak and currants. Superripe and exotic. Full-bodied, with great depth of fruit and velvety tannins. Very long and exotic. This reminds me of the 1989. Jean-Pierre Delmas says it could be better than 2000. I certainly agree. 10,000 cases made. - J.S.

• Chateau Lafite Rothschild, Pauillac: WS 95-100
Currants, blackberries, cedar and light tobacco. Very pure and fresh, like crushed berries. Full-bodied, with a solid core of ripe tannins and a long, long finish. Exciting, yet polished and refined. This is a rich and structured Lafite. Very classic style. - J.S.

• Chateau Lafleur, Pomerol: WS 95-100
This is seductive. Opulent aromas of chocolate, berry, plum and minerals. Full-bodied, with a fabulous concentration of fruit and supersilky tannins. This is the best wine of Pomerol and one of the most beautiful of 2003. Really exciting. - J.S.

• Chateau Latour, Pauillac: WS 95-100
Inky, with masses of licorice, coffee and currant character on the nose. It's full-bodied and supersilky. Thick yet elegant, with fantastic ripe tannins and exciting juicy fruit on the finish. This could be 1982 in the remake, but cleaner and classier. One of the smallest productions ever for this estate. 10,000 cases made. - J.S.

• Chateau Leoville Barton, Saint-Julien: WS 95-100
Very impressive licorice, blackberry and mint, some pencil. Full-bodied, with silky tannins. Superlong. Wonderful. Is it as good as 2000? Maybe. - J.S.

• Chateau Leoville Las Cases, Saint-Julien: WS 95-100
Warm and rich aromas of plums, blackberries and currants, turning to flowers and hints of mineral. Very complex. Layers of cashmerelike tannins, turning to leather. Warm and inviting, yet rich and powerful; fantastic purity, yet voluptuous. This is what exciting wine is about. - J.S.

• Chateau Margaux, Margaux: WS 95-100
This shows great depth on the nose with fruit, mineral and a meaty character. Very rich and decadent for Margaux. Full-bodied, with a solid core of sweet and silky tannins and a long, long finish. This is very racy and rich, with a fabulous velvety texture. Goes on and on. The most concentrated Margaux ever. - J.S.

• Chateau La Mission Haut Brion, Pessac-Leognan: WS 95-100
Fantastic aromas of violets, berries and currants with hints of wood. Full-bodied, with superrefined tannins and a lovely, silky finish. A very refined La Mission, yet powerful and structured. It builds and builds. - J.S.

• Chateau La Mondotte, Saint-Emilion: WS 95-100
Fabulous aromas of blackberries, chocolate, tobacco and cappuccino. Full-bodied, it starts off slowly with loads of fruit, but then it kicks off with the tannins. Blockbuster. Not obvious, but then wham. - J.S.

• Chateau Montrose, Saint-Estephe: WS 95-100
Fantastic and subtle with blackberries, spices, light leather and cinnamon. Full-bodied, with a slow start, then it spirits off with fabulously silky tannins and a long, long finish. This is like a super 1996. The owner likes it better than his 1990 and 1989. - J.S.

• Chateau Mouton Rothschild, Pauillac: WS 95-100
Complex aromas of blackberries, citrus and tobacco. Currants. Subtle nose, yet complex. You have to look under the surface. Full-bodied, with a big core of ripe fruit and superripe tannins. Thick and powerful. Chewy. Tannins come out of hiding and lash out on the finish. 21,665 cases made. - J.S.

• Chateau Pavie, Saint-Emilion: WS 95-100
Superripe and almost jammy. Very New World on the nose but impressive; Bordeaux-like on the palate. Berries, raspberries and strawberries. Hint of wood. Full-bodied, with ripe and round tannins and a long finish. Chewy. Got to like this. - J.S.

• Chateau Petrus, Pomerol: WS 95-100
Crushed blackberries and plums with hints of fresh mushrooms and violets. Very complex indeed. Full-bodied, with silky and refined tannins. This is a very rich and broad shouldered Petrus. Brawny. I am interested to see how it develops in barrel. Will it be better than 1998 or 2000? - J.S.

• Chateau Pichon Longueville Baron de Pichon, Pauillac: WS 95-100
Fabulous aromas of currants, berries and minerals. Flamboyant. Full-bodied, with big velvety and wild fruit. Outrageous. This is one of the greatest bottles I have ever tasted from here. Like the 1989 or 1990. I can't get over it. It's really exciting. - J.S.

• Chateau Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande, Pauillac: WS 95-100
This tastes like crushed grapes and red fruits. It's big and rich, full-bodied, with velvety tannins and a long, long finish. Juicy wine. A cross between the 1995 and 1996. In fact, it could be better than 2000. Wonderful. - J.S.

• Chateau Pontet Canet, Pauillac: WS 95-100
Very concentrated nose of blackberries, licorice and smoke, turning to flowers. Full-bodied, very rich and powerful with massive tannins, but it finishes sweet and ripe. This is muscular, but then it turns to crushed fruit. Superseductive. Best Pontet I have ever tasted. - J.S.

• Chateau Trotanoy, Pomerol: WS 95-100
Beautiful aromas of milk chocolate and berries with hints of raspberry tart. Full-bodied, with wonderful length and a beautiful finish. This should be better than the 2000. And it could equal the superlative 1998. Easier than the PŽtrus to taste just now, and flashier. - J.S.

• Chateau d'Aiguilhe, Cotes de Castillon: WS 92-94
Wow. This is really impressive now, with berry, currant and mineral. Full-bodied, with a wonderful core of fruit with superfine tannins and a fabulous length. Unbelievable for this estate. This has a new winery, but the clay soil of the vineyards really helped. - J.S.

• Chateau d'Armailhac, Pauillac: WS 92-94
Loads of blackberries, spices and minerals on the nose. Licorice. Full-bodied, with silky tannins and a long finish. Very rich and thick; this should be excellent. 13,000 cases made. - J.S.

• Chateau Beausejour Duffau Lagarrosse, Saint-Emilion: WS 92-94
This is really beautiful and seductive, with loads of ripe tannins and a smoke, chocolate and berry finish. Superlong. Exciting. Lovely elegance. Don't forget this one this year. Close to 95-100. - J.S.

• Chateau Bellevue, Saint-Emilion: WS 92-94
Soft and seductive, with lovely berries and ripe tannins. Medium- to full-bodied, with a caressing texture and a medium finish. Lovely. This is right next to Angelus and Beausejour-Lagarosse. A small property with six hectares. Tasted twice, with consistent notes. 1,665 cases made. - J.S.

• Chateau Calon Segur, Saint-Estephe: WS 92-94
Loads of blackberry and spice character with hints of cedar. Full-bodied, with lots of smoky character and loads of meat, chocolate and fruit. A gorgeous Calon. Could be higher than this range in bottle. Let's wait and see. - J.S.

• Chateau Canon la Gaffeliere, Saint-Emilion: WS 92-94
This shows a wonderful blackberry and spice character with hints of mineral. Full-bodied attack, with very good fruit and strong yet fine tannins. Finishes slightly hollow. Could move up to 92-94. - J.S.

• Clos du Marquis, Saint-Julien: WS 92-94
Pure currants with wild fruits that turn to fresh flowers. Full-bodied, with velvety tannins and a delicious, superfruity finish. Very long indeed. Cool and racy. Very fine. - J.S.

• Clos Fourtet, Saint-Emilion: WS 92-94
Very deep and rich wine. Blackberry, licorice, dark chocolate and tobacco. Full-bodied, with very velvety tannins and a long and beautiful finish. Very long. This is 1998, or better? - J.S.

• Chateau Ducru Beaucaillou, Saint-Julien: WS 92-94
Gorgeous blackberry, licorice and raspberry, with hints of minerals. Full-bodied and superlong. Silky and beautiful. Really long and fine. You have to like this. Seductive and harmonious red that grows on you. It's very rich in tannins but then shows lovely elegance. Almost 95-100. - J.S.

• Chateau Duhart Milon Rothschild, Pauillac: WS 92-94
Lots of blackberry, mineral and cedar aromas follow through to a full-bodied palate, with firm tannins and a licorice, berry and light spice finish. Very tight, yet round. One of the best I have tasted from this estate. - J.S.

• Chateau L'Eglise Clinet, Pomerol: WS 92-94
Plenty of blackberry, licorice and light jam character. Full-bodied, with well-integrated tannins and a soft, velvety finish. Lovely wine. Nicely crafted as always. 1,165 cases made. - J.S.

• La Fleur de Bouard Le Plus, Lalande-de-Pomerol: WS 92-94
Loads of licorice and blackberry character. Very seductive. Full-bodied, silky and rich. Lovely fruit. Chewy. Very big wine. First-growth in Lalande-de-Pomerol. Made from old vines. - J.S.

• Les Forts de Latour, Pauillac: WS 92-94
Very minerally, with blackberry and currants on the nose. Full-bodied, with very soft tannins. Long finish. Lovely wine. This wine is always more open and delicious in a young top vintage than Latour. But there's good structure, too. - J.S.

• Chateau Giscours, Margaux: WS 92-94
Intense aromas of cooked fruit and prunes. Full-bodied, with rich and ripe fruit character. Soft, round tannins and a long finish. Heady and rich. Port-like. Could be the legendary 1970 in the remake. 20,000 cases made. - J.S.

• Chateau Hosanna, Pomerol: WS 92-94
Bright and floral with lovely berry, chocolate and vanilla aromas. Full-bodied, with super well-integrated tannins and a long finish of forest fruits. This is serious wine. - J.S.

• Chateau Kirwan, Margaux: WS 92-94
Beautiful, bold and polished with blackberry and cedar aromas and flavors. Full-bodied, with silky tannins and a long, long finish. New World-style. Delicious yet structured. 8,315 cases made. - J.S.

• Chateau Lagrange, Saint-Julien: WS 92-94
Beautiful aromas of plums, violets, berries and licorice. Full-bodied, with super well-integrated tannins and a long finish. Very pretty indeed. Well-crafted, showing lots of character. 25,000 cases made. - J.S.

• Chateau Langoa Barton, Saint-Julien: WS 92-94
Blackberry, licorice and cherry. Full-bodied, sweet and velvety. Long and beautiful. This is 2000 all over again, but riper. Langoa is always a good value. - J.S.

• Chateau Lynch-Bages, Pauillac: 92-94
Very rich and decadent style to this. Full-bodied, with velvety tannins and a delicious finish. Flashy wine. Long and seductive. Maybe even better in bottle. - J.S.

• Chateau Malescot Saint Exupery, Margaux: WS 92-94
Wonderful aromas of blackberries, dark chocolate, meat and other yummy decadent things, changing to dry flowers. Full-bodied, with super well-integrated tannins and a long, fresh finish. Silky backbone of tannins. Serious wine. - J.S.

• Marojallia, Margaux: WS 92-94
Very silky young wine with licorice and berry character. Medium- to full-bodied, with very fine tannins and a fresh finish. Pretty wine. A finely crafted red from Saint-Emilion's Jean-Luc Thunevin. - J.S.

• Oriel L'Absolut, Saint-Emilion: WS 92-94
Solid core of ripe fruit in this wine with blackberry, cherry and plum character. Full-bodied, silky and long. This is serious. A small cuvee from Quinault. First vintage was last year. - J.S.

• Chateau Pape Clement, Pessac-Leognan: WS 92-94
Very rich nose of chocolate, tobacco and bright berries. Full-bodied, soft and luscious with ripe tannins and a long, delicious finish. Fine wine. - J.S.

• Chateau Pavie Macquin, Saint-Emilion: WS 92-94
Pure fruit. Like crushed berries with hints of minerals and licorice. Full-bodied, with wonderful freshness and length. Goes on and on. Could be the best I have tasted from here. - J.S.

• Pavillon Rouge du Chateau Margaux, Margaux: WS 92-94
Fabulous aromas of blackberries, licorice and berries. Exotic and full-bodied, with firm tannins and a great nose. Racy palate. Very sweet tannins. Second wine of Margaux. - J.S.

• Pensees de Lafleur, Pomerol: WS 92-94
Big and spicy red with loads of wild berries. Full-bodied, with excellent structure. What a second wine! - J.S.

• Chateau Rauzan Segla, Margaux: WS 92-94
A big and bold wine with loads of blackberry, tobacco and toasted oak character. Full-bodied and rich, with a decadent, berry aftertaste. Long finish. Wild retro red. Tasted twice, with consistent notes. - J.S.

• Chateau Rol Valentin, Saint-Emilion: WS 92-94
Thick and spicy with lots of fruit, almost jammy but racy. Full-bodied, soft and seductive. This is very serious indeed. Exciting stuff. This small producer makes fine handmade wines. - J.S.

• Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte, Pessac-Leognan: WS 92-94
Dark color, with intense aromas of blackberries and licorice. Full-bodied, with solid tannins and a long, silky finish. Excellent depth here. Very well-crafted. Smith-Haut-Lafitte continues to get better each year. 6,665 cases made. - J.S.

• Chateau Sociando Mallet, Haut-Medoc: WS 92-94
Beautiful aromas of raspberries, licorice and currants follow through to a full-bodied palate with silky tannins and a long finish. Very pretty. Elegant and refined. Another 1990 in the making? 24,445 cases made. - J.S.

• Chateau Talbot, Saint-Julien: WS 92-94
Wonderful blackberry and violet character with intense aromas. Full-bodied, with big silky tannins and a long, long finish. Super. Could be classic in quality. Could be better than 2000. - J.S.

• Chateau de Valandraud, Saint-Emilion: WS 92-94
A pretty wine, with blackberry, cherry and chocolate. Medium- to full-bodied, with fine-grained tannins and a sweet, tannic finish. Very well done. Some say its too new-wave, but I like it. - J.S.

• Domaine de l'A, Cotes de Castillon: WS 89-91
Intense aromas of blackberries, smoke and meat follow through to a medium-bodied palate, with layers of ripe tannins and a long, silky finish. Joy to taste. - J.S.

• Chateau d'Angludet, Margaux: WS 89-91
An exotic young wine with intense aromas of ripe fruit and citrus. Full-bodied, with silky tannins and a long, ripe fruit finish. Pushes the envelope. One of the best I have tasted from here in years. 7,220 cases made. - J.S.

• Chateau Armens, Saint-Emilion: WS 89-91
Very concentrated with loads of ripe fruit and light raisin aromas. Full-bodied, with chewy tannins and a medium finish. Impressive. A new wine to watch. Very new-wave in style. - J.S.

• Chateau Bahans Haut Brion, Pessac-Leognan: WS 89-91
Tobacco, and super ripe fruit with currants and berries. Full-bodied, with fine tannins and a long finish. Very pretty. Lovely fruit. Really good second wine from Haut-Brion. Better than 2000? - J.S.

• Chateau Batailley, Pauillac: WS 89-91
Intense aromas of currants, blackberries and lead pencil. Full-bodied, with silky tannins. Long on the palate. Rich. Serious effort here. - J.S.

• Chateau Beau-Sejour Becot, Saint-Emilion: WS 89-91
Slightly jammy character but some decent berry and tobacco character. Licorice. Medium-to-full body. Medium tannins. Thick finish. Could turn out very serious indeed. 4,610 cases made. - J.S.

• Chateau Beau-Site, Saint-Estephe: WS 89-91
Very intense aromas of currants and blackberries with licorice. Full-bodied, with silky tannins and a medium finish. Starts off with a bang, but falls away a bit on the end. Like it though. - J.S.

• Chateau Belair, Saint-Emilion: WS 89-91
Aromas of flowers, berries and currants on the nose. Medium- to full-bodied, with a solid core of ripe fruit and a long finish. Ripe yet refined. Well done for Belair. Almost 92-94. - J.S.

• Chateau Bellevue Mondotte, Saint-Emilion: WS 89-91
Essence of crushed raspberries and wild strawberries with just a hint of dark chocolate. Medium- to full-bodied, with a lovely silky tannin structure but slightly hollow on the midpalate. Like it. Wait and see. Very close to 92-94. - J.S.

• Chateau Bergat, Saint-Emilion: WS 89-91
Plenty of chocolate and blackberry character in a balanced and refined package. Medium-bodied, long and silky. Lovely young wine. - J.S.

• Chateau Beychevelle, Saint-Julien: WS 89-91
Lovely silky wine with currant, mineral and berry character. Full- to medium-bodied, with fine tannins and a reserved finish. Delicious already. 21,110 cases made. - J.S.

• Chateau La Bienfaisance, Saint-Emilion: WS 89-91
Lots of berry pie and rich fruit on the nose, but it is fresh and silky. Solid core of fruit. This is an interesting wine. I have never tasted it before. It is complex. One to watch. - J.S.

• Chateau Le Bon Pasteur, Pomerol: WS 89-91
A jammy, rich wine with cooked berry character. Full-bodied, soft and round. 2,000 cases made. - J.S.

• Chateau Boutisse, Saint-Emilion: WS 89-91
Loads of licorice and berry character. Medium-bodied, with good, well-integrated tannins and a medium finish. Should come along nicely in barrel. New wine for me. - J.S.

• Chateau Branaire Ducru, Saint-Julien: WS 89-91
A very good wine with blackberry and currant aromas and flavors. Medium-bodied, with good tannins. Balanced red. Harmonious. - J.S.

• Chateau Brane Cantenac, Margaux: WS 89-91
A good red with plum and tobacco character. Medium- to full-bodied, with good tannins. Medium finish. Refined, clean wine. 12,220 cases made. - J.S.

• Chateau La Cabanne, Pomerol: WS 89-91
Ripe and jammy with lots of fruit and tannins. Impressive. Rich and powerful. Like this. Very well done for this estate. 3,445 cases made. - J.S.

• Chateau Canon, Saint-Emilion: WS 89-91
Loads of cooked fruit on this one. Medium- to full-bodied, with medium tannins and a fruity finish. A very good wine. - J.S.

• Chateau Cantelys, Pessac-Leognan: WS 89-91
Plenty of blackberries and licorice on the nose. Full-bodied, with well-integrated tannins and a long silky finish. Pretty wine. Well done. 2,665 cases made. - J.S.

• Chateau Cantenac Brown, Margaux: WS 89-91
Intense aromas of red licorice that turn to chocolate. Full-bodied, chewy and rich with lots of fruit and ripe tannins. Very good indeed. - J.S.

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