 |
|
Chile part 1
Wine Report by Joseph Dumas |
Wine Report from Loire Valley & Armagnac region | Wine Report from Chile
Situated at the bottom of the world—depending on your point of view—Chile is a land of extremes. To the East, Chile is bordered by the formidable Andes mountain range; to the West, the roiling Pacific Ocean; to the North, there is arid desert; and to the South, the icy Antarctic. This long, narrow country is akin to a peninsula.
© 2004 VitiViniCcultura |
It is a topography and climate approximated to this schizophrenic alchemy. The morning sun and mid-day dry heat is tempered by the Humboldt currents from the Pacific Ocean. Nights can be cold and by morning, a mist enshrouds everything. Happily, the results of this stress are formidable climate and soil conditions ideally suited to wine production.
Microsoft® Encarta® Online Encyclopedia 2000 |
And this land of extremes serves an unparalleled advantage: Chile has always been immune to that bane of vineyards, internationally: phylloxera.
Chile has been producing wine for more than 500 years—beginning with the sacramental wines first planted by Spanish missionaries. In the 19th century, French viticulture took root, but only in the late 20th century did it become entrenched in international markets. Today, approximately 200 wineries, of varying size, are in operation.
Chile's viticulture, like its history, is a mélange of conflicting cultures and traditions. Its people are descended from the global diaspora. To wit, Chilean native, Isabel Allende, Latin America's most widely translated author, launches her family memoir, "Paula (1994)," with this salvo:
"The legend of our family begins at the end of the last century, when a robust Basque sailor disembarked on the coast of Chile with his mother's reliquary strung around his neck and his head swimming with plans for greatness."
So, too, the same could be said of Chile's thriving wine industry; for its French roots, arrived, literally, by ship in the same period when Allende's garrulous relative disembarked, and similarly, it harbored plans for greatness. Arguably, this rendez-vous with the future has been achieved.
Chile ranks Number 5 in world wine exports. And for the period ending October 2003-September 2004, Chilean wine exports reached USD$791 million, a 26.1% increase over the previous year, according to Mercopress, the South Atlantic news service. The total volume exported was 454.7 million liters which represents a 22.9% increase.
From Jan. through Sept. 2004, the top five countries to which Chile exported its wine were:
- The United Kingdom (22%)
- The United States (17%)
- Ireland (6%)
- Denmark (6%)
- Germany (5%)
Rory Callahan, U.S. representative of Wines of Chile, the Chilean Wine Association, has set a new goal: to boost Chilean exports to the U.S. from 1% to 3% in the range of USD$10-20.
Could Chile be the wine garden of Eden?
Certainly, Bacchus, the god of wine, would be overjoyed!
For the quality and pricing value, Chilean wines excel.
For USD$7 – $20, Chile produces "Old World" wine styles along with exciting new blends to satisfy any palate and budget.
Amongst others, one will find:
- Cabernet Sauvignon
- Carignan
- Carmenère
- Chardonnay
- Chenin Blanc
- Cinsaut
- Gerwurtztraminer
- Malbec
- Merlot
- Petit Verdot
- Pinot Noir
- Riesling
- Rose
- Sangiovese
- Sauvignon Blanc
- Semillion
- Sparkling Wine
- Syrah
- Viognier
- Zinfandel
Only 100 miles east of Santiago—across the Andes mountain range—is Mendoza, Argentina, South America's other leading wine producer. Some Chilean wineries, like Tarapaca and Montes, have exported their skills to the Mendoza region to produce fine Malbecs (In Argentina, the Montes partnership produces Malbec under the label, Kaiken).
In October, I undertook the 11 hour journey from New York City to Santiago, Chile. It was the eve of a robust Spring season. I joined an esteemed group of writers from around the United States for a tour of Chilean viticulture. We were part of the American Wine Writers Tour 2004 at the invitation of VitiViniCCultura, Chile's Wine Magazine. We sampled the best of Chilean wines in a variety of styles, whites and reds, including Chile's burgeoning star, the mysterious Carmenere grape.
For years, of course, Carmenere was mistaken for Merlot growth. Its origins, like much of Chilean viticulture in the 19th century, were tied to France. Following the European phylloxera epidemic, which decimated French vineyards in the 19th century, it was Chile which, for a time, provided French wine styles. A decade ago, French enologist Jean-Michel Boursiquit decoded the truth: Chilean merlot with its flavors richer than other Merlots in the world, was, in fact, Carmenere, aka Grand Vidure.
Notes from my Diary, Part 1
The wines I sampled, in aggregate, tended to be excellent renderings of the following varietals: Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Merlot, Syrah, Carmenère, and Cabernet Sauvignon. Chile excels in its red wines, such as Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and the big, aromatic Carmenere. In addition, there were a few delightful Pinot Noirs, and some very interesting, very sophisticated blends, such as Aresti Winemaker's Collection Cabernet Sauvignon/Carmenere/Pinot Noir (2001)[spicy fruit, earthy, open palate, layered, low tannins, a smooth, lingering finish].
Chilean winemakers are bucking the recent tradition of their peers in many New World wineries. Chardonnay styles tend to have less oak, which makes for less deterministic wines. Montes Alpha Chardonnay (2003) is but one shining example. This refreshing wine, with perfect acidity, has an open personality that evolves on the palate. It is like receiving a fruit basket of apples and pears.
Another pleasing, non-oaky Chardonnay (2004) USD$25, is from Loma Larga Vineyards. It will be available in the United States markets in August 2005. This silky Chardonnay, redolent of the Casablanca Valley estate with its sea breezes, tasted of light fruit, such as peaches. It has a long finish with a lemon zest.
Sauvignon Blancs', along with Chardonnays', excel in the cool, sprawling Casablanca Valley. A good value is Veramonte's Sauvignon Blanc (2004) USD$10: tarty, crisp, with mineral flavors.
An anecdote follows, which, in its entirety, contained for me an epiphany:
The Montes brand, which consistently receives high marks, globally, is toiling to meet the consumer demand for its product, as I discovered the day I visited the Colchagua Valley winery.
Unfortunately, my samplings, especially the reds, were disappointing; they were lacking in personality.
Alfred Viadurre, one of the Montes directors, who hosted the tasting, explained that the samples (all that was available) were newly bottled.
Later, my colleague, Cyril Penn, Editor-in-Chief of "The Wine Business Monthly", reminded me that wineries, like any other business, make decisions that are conscribed by the marketplace. Montes, whose star rightfully shines brightly, is working to retain its market share.
THAT SAID, I am delighted to report I sampled another round of the Montes line once I returned to New York City, and my opinions are diametrically opposite those I formed in Chile.
The second samples (including the Montes Alpha Chardonnay [2003] mentioned above) had both maturity and personality. Montes Limited Edition [Cabernet Sauvignon, 70%/Carmenere, 30%], was aromatic, layered, full-bodied; in short, sophisticated. An ideal complement to a meal of Spaghetti Bolognese.
Although impossible to be comprehensive, this listing of 8 vignerons is representative of Chile's best wine styles. My next report, Part II, will contain additional recommendations.
Cachapoal Valley
- Vina La Rosa
Vina La Rosa is known for not only fine wines, but also its La Palmeria Estate, a national park, where natural palm trees flourish.
- La Capitana Merlot (2003) USD$10: spicy, hints of chocolate with infusions of orange
- La Capitana Carmenère (2003) USD$10: fruity, open, unstructured, long finish
- La Capitana Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot (2003) USD$10: chocolate hints infused with orange; structured
- Don Reca Merlot (2003) USD$20: open palate, spicy, good acidity; high tannins—aging potential; good drinking wine
- Don Reca Carmenère (2003) USD$20: open palate, smooth, elegant finish!
- Don Reca Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon (2003) USD$20: plummy, open palate, smooth
Colchagua Valley
© 2004 VitiViniCcultura |
L-R, Gonzalo Silva S. (Agricultural Mgr.); Mario Pablo Silva S. (Managing Dir.); Mario Silva Cifuentes, President
© 2004 VitiViniCcultura |
Casa Silva wines
- Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva (2003) USD$10: Violets, Chocolate, leather, blackcurrant—big
- Casa Silva Coleccion Carmenere (2003) USD$9.00: spicy; soft tannins that ripen, along with the fruit, the longer it's aerated; a perfect complement to spicy food
- Casa Silva Coleccion Merlot (2003) USD$9.00: Spicy, layered, with a velvet texture
© 2004 VitiViniCcultura |
L-R, Luis Huenchul, a champion in the Chilean National Rodeo; La Huaso Joseph Dumas, guest; Mauricio Mayol, Trainer for Mr. Huenchul and Casa Silva's champion team in the Chilean National Rodeo.
Vina Casa Silva: below, barbeque with typical Chilean dishes
© 2004 VitiViniCcultura |
Vina Casa Silva: barbeque
Following the wine tasting, the Silva family invited our party to join them for a barbeque. It was a pleasure. Along with their wine styles, we enjoyed Chilean pastries, including Choripan (type of sausage in a roll), as a starter; followed by the main courses of grilled Lamb, Beef and Pork; and for dessert, Tres Leches Cake (Cake with 3 milks).
Following the meal, there was traditional folk dancing, plus a presentation of Casa Silva's equestrian team and their handsome horses.
© 2004 VitiViniCcultura |
Vina Casa Silva: Carolina Grez and la huaso, Luis Huenchul
© 2004 VitiViniCcultura |
Vina Casa Silva: La Huaso and trainer of Casa Silva's Equestrian Team, Mauricio Mayol, and his horse Casablanca Valley
© 2004 VitiViniCcultura | Loma Larga Vineyards
- Loma Larga Vineyards
Only 30 miles from the Pacific Ocean, Loma Larga is a boutique winery in Chile's sprawling Casablanca valley—home to exceptional white wine styles. It is sheltered from the cold sea winds, near Valparaiso, by the coastal mountain range. Climatically, the region is similar to California's Napa Valley.
The Australian winemaker, Meg Brodtman, in tandem with Marcela Chandia, the resident winemaker, has made Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Syrah, for 2004. The silky Chardonnay (USD$25), redolent of the estate with its sea breezes, tasted of light fruit, such as peaches. It was not oaky and had a long finish with a lemon zest. By contrast, the young and silky-smooth Pinot Noir (USD$30) hinted of woody tannins. I look forward to tasting it when it has matured further.
Said Brodtman, who, in addition to Australia, trained in France's Loire Valley: "We're learning to work with Pinot Noir here, which performs well in this country. Our goal is to create a distinctive, Chilean Pinot Noir."
Unfortunately, I didn't sample the Syrah (USD$35).
Loma Larga Vineyards will focus their exports to the U.S. market, commencing in August 2005.
© 2004 Loma Larga Vineyards |
© 2004 VitiViniCcultura | L-R, Luis Felipe Diaz-Santelices, CEO; Rosita Santelices-Errazuriz, Vice-Chairman; Patricio Diaz-Quiroga, Chairman
Footnote: In August, Patricio Diaz-Quiroga, the owner, and his wife, Rosita Santelices Errazuriz, were involved in a plane accident. En-route to Santiago from the North, they became enveloped in a cloud on the approach to Santiago. And though they were traveling at a speed of nearly 200 km per hour, the plane put down, seconds later, on the side of the mountain, as if guided by a hand. There was no impact, and the cabin was intact. They walked away. And within a minute, the plane was engulfed in fire. A blessing! They say their lives have been forever changed. To look into their eyes is to know this certainty; and they attribute their safety to the intervention of St. Therese of Lisieux, aka, the Little Flower ! For six years, a chapel, dedicated to St. Therese, has stood on wine estate.
© 2004 VitiViniCcultura | Our picnic in the vineyards consisted of typical Chilean cuisine, including roasted meats, salads, and desserts.
Rosita Santelices-Errazuriz (Vice-chairman), and her daughter-in-law, Daniela Muzard (Public Relations), kindly provided the full menu, including instructions for the barbeque:
The preparation of the pig takes some hours before serving. The young pig must weigh approximately 50 kilos.
The day before, it must be prepared without the interior organs and without the skin. You put the pig hanging, head down, so that the blood goes to the head. There you must bath him with the following: an herbal mixture of rosemary, marjoram, pepper, cumin, chilly sauce, salt, and apple cider vinager. You put all this in a food processor. Then you take a brush with the herbal mixture and you "paint" the pig inside and outside. Reserve half of this mixture. You leave the pig hanging all night.
Meanwhile, you make a hole with the following dimensions: 1.20 meter height, 1.20 meter width and 1.20 deep. At the bottom place some big round stones and in top of them, make a fire with big wooden logs. This suppose to burn all night so, that by 7 a.m. the next day you have just burning embers remaining without flames. Then, you place the pig in a metal net at about 0.50 cm. from the embers. Add the remaining herb preparation to the top and
bottom of the animal. After placing the pig with the belly down, cover
the hole with some zinc boards to maintain the heat. Cooking takes around 6 hours.
Side dishes:
Caprise salad: slices of tomatoes, mozzarella cheese and albahaca herb dressing with olive oil and salt.
Rice with mushroom and poppy seeds.
Hearts of different kind of lettuces with parmesan
cheese, dressing with olive oil, balsamic vinager,
salt and pepper.
Corn with light mayonnaise and slices of "palmitos" (tropical palm stems).
Dessert: "Meringue" with fruits and Milk Caramel Sauce"
Beat 10 egg whitesand add sugar caramel (30 spoons
of white sugar boiled with water until caramel is formed).
After beating, at the end, add 1 cup of confectioner's sugar. In a
cake pan, place this mixture and leave a hole in the middle. Bake in a 125 degree oven for 60 minutes. Afterwards, fill the hole with fruits, or whatever you desire. We used strawberries and "chirimoyas"
© 2004 VitiViniCcultura | A roasted pig for our picnic. Colchagua Valley
© 2004 VitiViniCcultura | Montes Alpha M.
- Vina Montes
- Chardonnay (2003) USD$8-10 : good acidity, vibrant fruit (apples, pears), smooth, refreshing
- Sauvignon Blanc (2003) USD$8-10 : high acidity; citrus, dry, tarty
- Merlot (2003) USD$8.50-10: spicy, fruity, smooth, what merlot should aspire to be
- Montes Alpha Chardonnay (2003) USD$18-20: good acidity; structured; citrus-lemony, smooth, elegant, refreshing
- Montes Alpha M[Merlot] (2001) USD$65-75: smooth, blackcurrant, unstructured; excellent with spicy foods.
- Montes Limited Selection [Cabernet Sauvignon 70% Cabernet/Carmenere 30%] (2003) USD$11-12: spicy, smooth, layered, sophisticated; excellent with tomato-based pastas; also meats
- Montes Limited Selection [Pinot Noir] (2003) USD$11-12: sophisticated; silky, easy-drinking; up-front
- Kaiken Malbec (2002): Montes' Argentina vineyards in the Mendoza region have confirmed their dexterity in both countries: soft, plummy, raisin and mincemeat notes
Curico Valley
© 2004 VitiViniCcultura |
in the foreground, Vicente Aresti, Export Manager and a selection of Aresti wines.
- Aresti A Saugvignon Blanc (2004) USD$8: citrus-lemony; smooth, elegant, quick finish
- Aresti A Chardonnay (2004) USD$8: non-oaky; fruity, elegant
- Aresti A Gewürztraminer (2004) USD$8: citrus, upfront, lychees; excellent with spicy cuisine
- Aresti A Merlot (2003) USD$8: spicy—berries, smooth, long finish.
- Aresti A Carmenere (2003) USD$8: hints of green pepper; spicy; complex, round, spicy.
- Aresti Reserva Carmere (2003) USD$11: Full bodied, woodsy, but doesn't linger too long on the palate.
- Aresti Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon (2001) USD$11: strong tannins, dry
© 2004 VitiViniCcultura | our wine tasting
- Aresti Winemaker's Collection Cabernet Sauvignon/Carmenere/Pinot Noir (2001) USD$16: layered, but unstructured, open palate, sophisticated, smooth, nice fruit, earthy, low tannins, lingering finish; compliments spicy food superbly
- Aresti Family Collection Cabernet Sauvignon (1999) USD$27-30: green peppers, low tannins, full body, but not too big
Maule Valley
- Vina Calina
© 2004 VitiViniCcultura | Chardonnay (2002)
- Chardonnay (2002) USD$7.50-8.50: —80% grapes from Casablanca Valley; 20% from Limare Valley; citrus nose; lemony; fresh; not oaky
- Reserva Merlot (2002) USD$7.50-8.50: [aged 9 mos. in French Oak] /Spicy nose; smooth
- Carmenere —38% Carmenere/12% Cabernet Sauvignon USD$7.50-8.50: Soft, smooth, velveteen, spicy fruits, elegant
- Cabernet Sauvignon (2001) USD$7.50-8.50: lovely, spicy, big fruit
- Grande Reserva Merlot (2002) USD$7.50-8.50: spicy, peppery; structured, fruity, smooth, elegant
- Grande Reserva Carmenere (2003) USD$7.50-8.50: fruity, smooth, structured
- Grande Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon (2001) USD$7.50-8.50: soft, quiet on palate; less structured than is usual for Cabernet Sauvignon
Limari Valley
© 2004 VitiViniCcultura |
- Vina Tamaya
- Chardonnay [Varietal] (2004): citrus, ripe fruit, high acidity
- Chardonnay [Reserve] (2003) USD$12: citrus, buttery, soft
- Carmenere [Varietal] (2002) USD$7: earthy, complex, prunes and blackcurrants
- Carmenere [Reserve] (2002) USD$: strong opening on palate; berry flavors (blackberry pie); quiet finish
- Merlot (85%)-Sangiovese (15%) [Varietal] (2003) USD$12: fine tobacco, prunes, black cherries
© 2004 VitiViniCcultura | Vina Tamaya: our tasting
- Cabernet Sauvignon [Varietal] (2003) USD$7: hints of chocolate; dark fruits: blackberries, black cherries; soft tannins, smooth finish; aged without oak
- Cabernet Sauvignon [Reserve] (2003) USD$12: hints of fine tobacco, complex, smooth finish; oak-aged for 8 months
- Cabernet Sauvignon (50%)-Carmenere (25%)-Syrah (25%) [Special Reserve] (2002) USD$20: smoky (not unlike a barbeque sauce!)—main spice is Syrah; elegant; structured; long finish
Maipo Valley
© 2004 VitiViniCcultura |
one of the fine reds
- Tarapaca Chardonnay[Reserve] (2003) USD$10: light fruit; hints of salmon (from malolactic fermentation) [from Tarapaca vineyards in the Maipo Valley]
- Vina Mar Chardonnay[Special Reserve] (2003) USD$12: light fruit; good acidity; not too oaky [from Tarapaca vineyards in the Casablanca Valley]
- Pinot Noir [Reserve] (2003) USD$10: garnet color; wood smoke; hints of barbeque; soft, smooth [from Tarapaca vineyards in the Casablanca Valley]
- Malbec [Reserva] (2003) USD$12: ruby color; wood smoke; plummy [from Tarapaca vineyards in the Mendoza region, Argentina]
© 2004 VitiViniCcultura | Our tasting
- Merlot [Reserva] (2003) USD$10: ruby color; wood smoke; plummy [from Tarapaca vineyards in the Maipo Valley]
- Merlot [Special Reserve] (2003) USD$12: 1st nose: seafood gumbo!; then, artichokes; very smooth [from Tarapaca vineyards in the Casablanca Valley] aged in 50% French oak; 50% American oak
- Carmenere [Reserve] (2003) USD$10: upfront; blackcurrants [from Tarapaca vineyards in the Maipo Valley]
- Cabernet Sauvignon [ Reserve] (2002) USD$10: 1st nose: seafood gumbo!; then, artichokes; very smooth [from Tarapaca vineyards in the Casablanca Valley] aged in 50% French oak; 50% American oak
Chilean wine sings a song as lush and seductive as its poetry:
"... my poetry was born between the hill and the river, it took its voice from the rain, and like the timber, it steeped itself in the forests."
Nobel laureate Pablo Neruda
Joseph Dumas, a wine and food enthusiast, lives in New York City. Regularly he writes about travel, food, wine, and artisan products in short, the art of living.
You can write to him at: lesvinspays@yahoo.com. |
HOME
